I can't believe I only have one more month left here in Sevilla. As cliche as it sounds, this has truly been the fastest semester of my life. Since I last blogged, Sevilla had it's annual Semana Santa (Holy Week) in which there should have been several processions featuring ornate floats of gold, images of Jesus and Mary, and Nazarenos (men dressed in KKK-like outfits). Unfortunately, the weather was not in our favor, and I failed to see a single procession. It was constantly raining, and honestly, a bit depressing. As a result, my senora Mercedes was constantly singing, "La lluvia en Sevilla es una maravilla," (The rain in Sevilla is a marvel). I was close to seeing two processions -- one in Trinidad and the other in San Marcos, but Trinidad ended prematurely due to the rain and San Marcos did not even start due to the forecast of a torrential downpour. It was so disappointing. I was only able to to see a marching band and cross, but no floats. One of the most notable processions during La Madruga (Holy Thursday) is in La Macarena and features an extremely old image of the Virgin Mary. Although, I wasn't able to see any processions, it was nice to have the week off of school.
Most recently, I have been seeing some very interesting sights in Sevilla. Today, as I was reading the newspaper on the metro, I came across a section titled "Machismo." I couldn't believe it; only in Spain or a Latin American country would that be its own separate section. I've noticed that Spaniards are huge fans of graphic tees, particularly those in English. Since very few Spaniards actually know English, I often wonder if they understand the meaning behind the words plastered across their chests. For instance, today I saw a shaggy-haired, nerdy-looking teenage/young adult Spaniard wearing a t-shirt that said, "Andalusians do it better." If he understand what this English phrase meant, I would be impressed. Now, if he were to actually be lucky with the ladies, I would be even more impressed.
Two days ago, I went to my first and most likely last bullfight (corrida de toros). Sevilla's bullfighting stadium is one of the most renowned in the world. The structure itself was extremely impressive and regal. Their bullfights are the equivalent to our Kentucky Derby. It was even complete with men smoking several cigars, of which I got a few too many whiffs. Men and women attend the event sporting their finest attire. I witnessed the slaughtering of 6 bulls that day. As hard as I tried to see the art in the act of taunting and killing each bull, it simply seemed barbaric and sad. One bull even tried to hide and get out of the ring; he had no desire to partake in this game. The best part of the bullfight was probably the outfits the corredores (i.e. matadors) were wearing. They were exactly as I had pictured them -- items from Liberace's late 80's collection. They were flamboyant, tight-fitting, and all around the loudest pieces of clothing I have ever seen a straight man wear with a serious face.
Recently, I went to Rinconcillo, the oldest bar in Sevilla. My first visit to this wonderful establishment was on Easter Sunday. It was packed with Spaniards, and simply "looked Spanish." Machismo was in the air. Five minutes into being there, a fight broke out between two men over a woman. One man was sporting a striped button down, while the other wore a button down shirt with a sweater over his shoulders. Watching two men fight on Easter was not only appalling, but it was difficult to take the fight seriously considering they were wearing pastels.
Classes are finished for the week, and I have yet another vacation from school. This upcoming week is Feria de Abril full of casetas (private parties) in Los Remedios, Sevillanas dancing, flamenco dresses, and rebujitos for all. I cannot wait for the festivities begin! Besos!
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